By Shelley Adatto-Baumgarten, Jewish Sound Columnist
Editor’s note: This article marks the first of a monthly column that will focus on the history of Sephardic foods — with recipes. We hope you enjoy it.
In just a few weeks, it will be Tu B’Shevat. What? In the winter? What an odd time to be celebrating Arbor Day. In the United States, bare branches still grace the sky and soil lays dormant with frost instead of erupting into foliage and blossoms. In Israel, however, Tu B’Shevat, which takes place on the 15th day of the month Shevat, signals the beginning of spring with the first buds appearing. In Israel and the U.S., it is customary to celebrate the awakening of Israel’s spring season and trees by eating fruits of the earth. This includes fruit, of course, and also grains. These fruits and grains are identified in the Torah as the seven species, as found in Deuteronomy, chapter 8: Wheat, barley, figs, pomegranates, olives, dates, and grapes.
When the Sephardim celebrate Tu B’Shevat, it is referred to in Ladino as Fruticas or Las Frutas. It is tradition to read from the “Peri Etz Hadar,” which means “goodly fruit.” Included in this book is a Fruticas seder and instructions on how to conduct it. For many Sephardim, this seder’s blessings are punctuated by four glasses of different wines that vary in color intensity, depending upon which fruits are being blessed. For example, the first glass of wine is pale white, symbolizing the dormant earth awaiting the planting season. The second glass, more golden in color, represents the earth waking up with sap emanating from trees. The third cup is usually a rosé, representing trees beginning to blossom, and the fourth glass, a deep burgundy, represents fully ripened fruits and trees. In Seattle, a version of this seder is practiced by some Sephardic families with extended family and friends on hand to enjoy the various blessings.
Bulgur wheat (or cracked wheat) is central to the Sephardim on Fruticas and is important because it represents a stable life. It is a fundamental ingredient to breads, crackers, and other nourishing wheat-based products. In fact, 18th-century scholars would recite “Im ein kemach, ein Torah” (Without wheat flour, there is no Torah).
One dish in particular that’s delicious and wonderfully healthy is called “prehito” or “moostrahana.” Prehito is a cracked-wheat pudding enjoyed at any time of the day. It is a centuries-old dish, not surprising given that bulgur is an ancient grain that dates back at least 8,000 years. Additionally, as early as 1660 to 1672, bulgur wheat took Istanbul by storm, being consumed in great quantities according to C.A. Wright in her book “A Mediterranean Feast.”
One can surmise that this may be the genesis of prehito.
Wright continues with some interesting information about the modern-day preparation of cracked wheat. Apparently, it is quite similar to the way our ancient ancestors prepared it. Originally, the pudding was made by immersing the cracked wheat in hot water and letting it sit for a few hours until soft enough for consumption. Today, we still prepare cracked wheat by cooking it in heated water on a stove top until it softens, for about 30 minutes. How fascinating to imagine our 8,000-year-old ancestors enjoying a bowl of cooked cereal as we do today. And this mighty grain may be the first processed food, according to Sunnyland Mills in the U.S., its largest processor and packager for retail and consumption.
Although prehito is celebrated and eaten on Fruticas, it can be enjoyed during any of the seasons. Paired with some yogurt and a spinach quajado (soufflé), it makes for a delicious desayuno (Ladino for brunch). Also, be sure to include Turkish coffee. Sitting and eating these time-honored Sephardic dishes can make one realize how modern and healthy our ancestors were so long ago ago. It is an absolutely scrumptious way to celebrate Fruticas.
Prehito
Adapted from Gilda Angels’s “Sephardic Holiday Cooking”
1 cup finely ground bulgur (cracked wheat)
4 cups water
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 tsp. salt
2 Tbs. honey
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 cup walnuts, finely chopped and divided
Place bulgur in a small to medium saucepan and cover with the water. Cook over medium heat for 30 minutes, stirring frequently.
- Add sugar and salt and cook an additional 10 minutes. At this point, stir constantly. If starting to burn on the bottom, reduce heat to low-medium and keep stirring.
- Remove from heat and add honey, cinnamon, and 1/2 cup walnuts.
- Dust a 9-inch glass or ceramic dish or a 9×9-inch pan with additional cinnamon. Using a spatula, pour in the wheat mixture and be certain to scrape the sides of the pan. Top with remaining 1/2 cup of walnuts and dust lightly with additional cinnamon.
- Cover and chill several hours. When ready to serve, cut into wedges or squares.
Serves 8.
Avid professional baker and culinary writer Shelley Adatto-Baumgarten looks forward to teaching Sephardic cuisine at North Seattle College and other locations this spring.