ColumnistsJewish and Veggie

Eat your vegetables — and like them!

By Michael Natkin ,

JTNews Columnist

Hopefully we are at a point now where it is no longer considered a faux pas to actually cook a vegetable. I know there was a time when all vegetables were indiscriminately boiled to death. Then came the rebellion, and all vegetables had to be served just lightly waved over steam. Your jaw got a good workout in those years.
The truth is many vegetables can yield different pleasures depending on the time, temperature, and technique by which they are cooked. Broccoli that is steamed or boiled for a long time is horrible gray, sulfurous stuff. But slowly, slowly pan-roast broccoli in a good amount of olive oil, and it becomes meltingly tender and luscious. It makes a perfect condiment for the al dente chew of properly cooked cavatelli.
This dish would more typically be seasoned with a modest amount of chili flakes, and that was exactly where I was headed until I spotted the jar of harissa (a Moroccan spice paste available at upscale grocers or Middle Eastern markets) in my fridge. The thought of that more complex flavor was impossible to resist, and I’m glad I didn’t try. Big handfuls of parsley and mint at the very last second add a nice fresh finish.

Cavatelli with Slow Roasted Broccoli and Harissa

Vegetarian; vegan if you don’t serve the parmesan cheese
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
8 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 head broccoli, florets cut bite sized; stems peeled and cut bite sized
2 tsp. harissa paste
Kosher salt
1 pound cavatelli pasta
1 packed handful parsley leaves
1 packed handful fresh mint leaves
Maldon salt
Freshly ground pepper
Freshly ground Parmigiano-Reggiano, optional
Heat the olive oil over medium heat in your largest skillet. Add the garlic and sauté for about 20 seconds. Add the broccoli, harissa, and 1/4 teaspoon salt and reduce heat to medium low. Cook, turning occasionally, until the broccoli is completely tender and meltingly delicious — I’ve been known to let this go for 45 minutes or more. Add a little more olive oil during the process if it seems advisable.
Put aside four bowls to warm.
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a rolling boil. Cook the pasta until al dente. Transfer to the skillet with the broccoli, reserving a cup of the pasta water. Raise the heat to medium-high. Toss the pasta with the broccoli. If it seems a little dry, drizzle in some of the pasta water to develop a bit of moistness and shine. Taste and adjust seasoning; it will probably need more salt.
Stir in the parsley and mint. Divide the pasta among the preheated bowls, hit with a few flakes of Maldon salt and some freshly ground pepper, and serve immediately, passing the Parmesan cheese at the table if using.
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 1 hour
Yield: 4 servings