By Judith Broder Sellner, Special to JTNews
As is Jewish custom for many holidays, we observe Rosh Hashanah both in the synagogue and at home.
The “at home” part, traditionally a festive meal with family and friends, features food and wine. The wine has taken on new prominence in the last 20 or so years as kosher wines have come into their own, earning major awards in international competition against comparable non-kosher bottlings.
To add an extra touch to your holiday meals, here are some top choices from this year’s releases, as recommended by their importers and distributors.
Which wines are the best? In this reporter’s opinion, the wines you like are the best for you, and that’s what matters. The selections that follow include some of their general qualities.
To start, as in a wine tasting, here are the new reds. Unless otherwise noted, the reds ideally accompany roasts, grills, or stews of rich beef, lamb, dark turkey, duck, and goose. Poached or baked salmon and grilled rare tuna also pair well with many red wines. Some fans of these healthful varieties also enjoy them with white fish and chicken dishes — especially if heavily herbed or made with rich sauces.
With probably the largest portfolio of kosher wines in North America, Royal Wine Corporation has selected its top 10. Seven are reds.
From California, new selections are the lush Herzog Special Reserve Edna Valley Syrah 2004, in the style of Northern Rhone wines; the elegant Herzog Special Reserve Edna Valley Pinot Noir 2005, Herzog’s first example of this grape variety; and the intense Weinstock Cellar Select Zinfandel 2004.
From Royal’s French selections, Baron Rothschild Haute Medoc 2003, typical of the region, blends rugged Cabernet and soft Merlot, and exceeds all adjectives. Chateauneuf du Pape Domaine du Boite 2005 is a hearty, must-try Rhone blend of Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah with some pink Clairette for elegance.
The Welner Family brings us this year two new kosher Italian red wines under the Primo’V label. The young Merlot 2006 is soft and smooth; the Pinot Noir, a bit sturdier — both good values.
Beckett’s Flat ‘Five Stones’ Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2006 from Western Australia, well-balanced and complex, is rich and velvety, worth a try.
Royal’s selections from Israel continue to amaze with both quality and quantity. Psagot Edom 2004, from a new suburban Jerusalem winery, a premium dark red blend of 75 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 25 percent Merlot, similar to the Bordeaux styles, has already earned a Gold Medal at Israel’s Terravino Challenge. From the Galilee, Segal’s Fusion Red 2005 is a very drinkable, medium-bodied blend of 60 percent Merlot, 20 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20 percent Cabernet Franc. It matches well with roasted, herbed turkey breast, and with darker meats and fish.
Israel’s world-class Golan Heights Winery has also released some very special wines in time for this High Holiday season. Its aromatic and complex 2003 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard, will remain in good drinking condition for at least 15 years from vintage. The dark purple 2002 Yarden Syrah, rich and complex, is full-bodied with a high concentration of flavor. The winery staff likes this wine with a decadent dark chocolate cake and intensely flavored foods.
Recanati, a relative newcomer, with Upper Galilee vineyards, has earned an admirable reputation in its half-dozen years of production. Released this year, its Petit Syrah-Zinfandel Reserve 2005, a 70 percent-30 percent blend, is full-bodied, rich and approachable. Recanati Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2004, with 6 percent Merlot, is a modern classic in style, full-bodied with a complex bouquet.
Dalton, another premier Israeli winery, just released its Alma Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 2005, a 65 percent-35 percent blend, soft and buttery on the palate, leaning toward a “New-World” style. Dalton Syrah Reserve 2005, more of an “Old-World” style with 10 percent Viognier in the blend, displays a complex, fruity character.
Moving into whites, the wine of choice for special occasions is a crisp, bubbly sparkling wine. What better for Rosh Hashanah than an internationally acclaimed Israeli wine? That’s Yarden Blanc de Blancs. The newest release, 2000 vintage, is luscious before or during dinner.
The following dry whites from Israel, with differing characteristics, pair well with light meat and fish and vegetarian favorites: newly released Dalton Viognier Reserve 2006, an elegant wine, silky smooth and delicate; and Recanati Sauvignon Blanc 2006, dry, full-bodied, and lively.
Two new kosher Italian whites, both from Pinot Grigio grapes, come from the sunny Veneto Region. Royal imports Sforno Pinot Grigio 2006, straw-color, dry, slightly effervescent and aromatic. Also from the Veneto region, Welner Family Selection’s Primo’V Pinot Grigio 2006 has similar characteristics. Consider comparing them — they are reasonably priced and easy to drink.
From Western Australia, Beckett’s Flat ‘Five Stones’ 2007 Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon, a 70-30 blend, is crisp, yet semi-dry.
California’s Herzog Late Harvest Chenin Blanc Clarksburg 2005, Gold Medalist at San Diego’s International Wine Competition, is a naturally sweet white. It is perfect on its own or with simple foods.
May all these choices bring you a happy, healthy New Year. L’chaim and shana tova.
Judith Broder Sellner is a New York-based writer specializing in Jewish holiday and lifecycle celebelisarations, reporting on kosher wine and leading tastings for about 20 years.