Local News

Learning about our state’s Jewish history—through our stomachs

Courtesy Jerry Cone

By , Special to JTNews

On November 6, the Washington State Jewish Historical Society will hold its annual gala with the launch party for its new cookbook, Yesterday’s Mavens, Today’s Foodies: Traditions in Northwest Jewish Kitchens. The event will include tastings of recipes included in the book as well as a performance by the Seattle Jewish Theater Company. Below are a few select recipes — and their accompanying stories — taken from among the more than 400 submitted.

Borekas de Aroz

From Victoria Almeleh
“Because my mother went through the Depression years, she became a ‘recycler’ long before it was fashionable. As a result, she used the unprinted side of mail and cards and invitations to write her recipes on. I could determine the date she wrote down the recipes from the date of the event on the other side.”
— Lucille Almeleh Spring

Filling:
4 cups water
2 cups raw, short-grain rice
Pinch of salt
8 extra-large eggs
16 oz. Romano cheese, grated
16 oz. cottage cheese

Dough:
6-1/2 cups flour
Pinch of salt
1-1/4 cups vegetable oil
1 cup ice water

For brushing and sprinkling:
1 egg, beaten
1/2 cup each Romano and parmesan cheese, blended
For the filling, bring the water to a boil. Add the rice and salt. Cook according to the package directions. When done, transfer the rice to a large bowl and cool.
When completely cooled, add the eggs, one at a time, then both the Romano and cottage cheeses, and mix well. Refrigerate.
For the dough, sift the flour into a large bowl. Whisk in the salt then stir in the oil and ice water. Mix the dough well and let sit for 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 375º. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Gather and roll the dough into balls about the size of a walnut. Temporarily place the balls in a well-oiled, shallow baking sheet with sides. Roll out one ball at a time into a circle approximately 3 inches in diameter. Place a scant tablespoon of the filling in the middle of the circle and fold in half. Either flute the edges, or with the tines of a fork press the edges together. Repeat the process until all the balls are rolled out and filled.
Place the borekas on the baking sheet. Brush with the egg, then sprinkle with the cheeses.
Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, 10 to 15 minutes on the bottom rack then 10 minutes or so on the top rack.

Malagasy Peppercorn Butter

From Elise Topp
2 lbs. butter — 1 sweet (unsalted), 1 salted
2 tsp. parsley
1 tsp. tarragon
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 can (4 oz.) Madagascar green pepper
Accent with dash of brandy, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice
1. Mix all the ingredients until smooth and roll into a log. Slice thinly. Butter can be frozen.

Bagels

From Jerry Cone
“Going to Brenner’s on Cherry Street for freshly baked bagels began for me when I was a kid and continued on into married life — until Brenner’s Bakery disappeared. That’s when I started to create, boil and bake those little holes with dough around them. When my great-grandson Sam wanted his ‘great papa’ to let him help, I joyfully complied.”
— Jerry Cone

1 pkg. active dry yeast
1-1/2 tsp. kosher salt
3 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
2/3 cup lukewarm water
2 Tbs. sugar
3 Tbs. vegetable oil
1 egg
1. In an electric mixer, combine yeast and salt with 1 cup of the flour. Stir in lukewarm water and sugar. Add oil and egg. Beat with an electric mixer until very smooth.
2. Add remaining flour, 1/2 cup at a time, to make a soft dough. Remove dough to a lightly floured surface. Knead a minute or two until dough is smooth and elastic. Place the ball of dough into an oiled mixing bowl.
3.Cover dough with a dishtowel. Let rise at room temperature about 1 hour or more until it doubles in bulk. Punch down, move to a lightly floured surface, and knead briefly.
4. Divide into 12 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a log about 6 inches long and 3/4 inch thick. Pinch the ends together to make a round.
5. Place on a lightly floured board and cover with a towel. Let rise for about 45 minutes. Preheat oven to 375º. Bring 4 quarts of water to a gentle boil in a large pot. Slide each bagel into the water. After 30 seconds, flip them over and simmer for 3 minutes. Remove from water with a large slotted spoon or spatula and drain on paper towels.
6. Place on a lightly oiled cookie sheet (if desired, brush bagels with an egg white beaten with 1 Tbs. water. Sprinkle with poppy or sesame seeds). Bake for 10 minutes, then increase temperature to 400º. Bake for an additional 10-15 minutes until golden brown.
Yield: About 12 bagels.

Mildred Levin’s Brownies

“In 2003, when my husband and I left the East Coast and moved to Issaquah, we brought my stash of Jewish cookbooks. Included was a dog-eared and stained copy of Dining Out at Home, published in 1965 by the Passaic, N.J. section of the National Council of Jewish Women. My mother gifted me with this book when I was a newlywed. Almost half a century later my daughter Rachel Stoner and I still use it. Rachel’s 8-year-old daughter Jordan uses it, too. Not surprisingly, one of Jordan’s favorite recipes is brownies.
My mom sent me these brownies when I was in college and I sent them to Rachel when she went to college, and in 10 years, God willing, we’ll both send them to Jordan.”
— Jane Isenberg

4 oz. bitter chocolate
1/2 lb. butter or margarine
4 eggs
2 cups sugar
1 cup sifted flour
1 cup chopped walnuts (optional)
1 tsp. vanilla
1. Preheat oven to 350º. Melt chocolate and butter in a double boiler. Cool. Beat one egg well and add sugar gradually. Add balance of eggs, one at a time. Combine with chocolate mixture. Add the rest of the ingredients. Bake in an 8 inch x 11 inch greased and floured pan for 25–30 minutes. For moist brownies, place in refrigerator at once and chill for several hours. Cut into squares.