By Sheilah Kaufman, Special to JTNews
From early childhood in Washington, D.C., I loved helping my mother prepare for the Jewish holidays. The only problem was I really didn’t like most of the “Jewish” foods she prepared. I loved her chicken soup (but not her matzoh balls), the brisket and chicken were okay, and honey cake is not my favorite dessert. As I grew older and began to expand my knowledge of the cuisine of other countries and cultures, I began to realize that I did not have to stick with traditional holiday recipes — I could start my own new traditions! Now I travel the country teaching that topic, and each year I try to find new recipes to add to my collection.
Below are a select few for the High Holidays.
Hawayij (or Hawaj)
A traditional Yemenite spice mix used in many types of recipes.
6 tsp. black peppercorns
3 tsp. caraway seeds
1 tsp. saffron threads
1 tsp. cardamom seeds
2 tsp. turmeric
Using a mortar and pestle (or in a blender), pound (or combine) the peppercorns, caraway seeds, saffron and cardamom together. Stir in the turmeric and place in a covered jar. Use as directed in recipes.
This soup has become my “all time favorite chicken soup.” I met Tamar when a mutual acquaintance suggested I call her for her fabulous chicken soup recipe for the cookbook I was writing, Sephardic Israeli Cuisine (Hippocrene Books). It was love at first sip.
Tamar’s Yemenite Chicken Soup
4 lb. whole chicken, cleaned and cup up
2 whole peeled onions
4 to 6 peeled carrots
bunch of leeks, whites only — save the green tops
3 Tbs. fresh chopped parsley
2 peeled potatoes, cut into chunks
1 butternut squash, peeled and cut into 2-by-1-inch chunks
2 chicken bouillon cubes
Spices to taste including:
2 to 2-1/2 tsp. hawaj
1 tsp. ground cumin
turmeric (not needed if using hawaj)
salt
freshly ground pepper
1 bunch fresh cilantro, stems removed
Place chicken in a large pot and cover with enough cold water to cover plus an inch more. Bring to a boil, and as chicken cooks skim off bubbles and “skum” (about 20 minutes).
Add onion, carrots, leeks and parsley. Cover and cook for 20 minutes on medium heat, then add potatoes and squash. Stir in bouillon cubes and spices. Lower heat to simmer, cover and cook until chicken is done, about 45 minutes. Add cilantro and chopped greens from the leeks, and cook another 10 minutes. Remove chicken from pot and let soup cool. Strain the broth.
Keep chicken separate. Tear or cut into pieces and add to soup before serving. If needed, add salt and fresh ground pepper to taste. May be made ahead or frozen.
Serves 8.
This recipe, from my cookbook From Simply Irresistible: Easy, Elegant, Fearless, Fussless Cooking is flavorful, healthy, and fabulous! I love to prepare this for Passover as well, just omitting the rice.
Roasted Onion and Shallot Soup
4 medium onions, peeled and thickly sliced
12 large shallots, peeled and halved (or 16 small)
2 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil
Salt, to taste
1 tsp. sugar, or to taste
6 to 8 fresh thyme sprigs or 2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
6 Tbs. brown or white rice (optional)
6 cups chicken stock
1/4 to 1/2 cup dry white sherry (not cooking sherry)
1/2 to 3/4 cup (pareve) cream or half-and-half
Preheat oven to 400°F. Place onions and shallots on a jelly roll pan (baking with short sides) sheet. Sprinkle with olive oil; toss vegetables to coat lightly with oil.
Sprinkle vegetables with salt, sugar and thyme. Roast, turning vegetables occasionally, for 45 to 50 minutes, or until lightly golden or soft. Place vegetables in a soup pot. Add rice and chicken stock. Cover pan and simmer 35 minutes. Using a blender or food processor, purée soup (this may have to be done in batches) and return to pot. Stir in sherry and cook one to two minutes. Add cream, mix well, heat through and serve.
Serves 8 to 10.
This comes from my friend, cooking maven Amy Peck Abraham in St. Louis.
Carrot Fennel Soup
16-oz. bag petite carrots
1 bulb fennel, diced (reserve green stalks for other use)
1 onion, diced
4 shallots diced (or more to yield 1/2 cup)
5 garlic cloves, smashed
2 Tbs. olive oil (divided)
16-oz. can beef broth
16-oz can vegetable broth
1/3 cup brown sugar
2 Tbs. cumin
1 Tbs. coriander
A few drops of hot pepper oil (optional)
1 Tbs. kosher salt
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 large slices of stale sourdough bread
In cold water, in large soup pot, bring carrots to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. In a large heavy skillet, sauté and brown fennel in 1 Tbs. olive oil, set aside in bowl. Add the other tablespoon of oil to skillet and brown the onions and the garlic.
Drain the water from the soup pot and add the fennel, onions, and garlic to the carrots.
Add all remaining ingredients, except bread, and bring to a boil; simmer for 15 minutes or until fennel is tender.
Take soup pot off the heat, submerge the pieces of bread, and wait at least 15 minutes (or until completely cool) before carefully using immersion blender to purée the soup to the preferred consistency. Add water (or broth) 1 Tbs. at a time if too thick. Check for saltiness/sweetness balance and adjust to taste. Return to stove to warm gently while stirring.
Note: This soup is very rich even though it does not have cream; so the portion size is intentionally small. It is delicious with cream or a dollop of sour cream.
Serves 8.
Cookbook author, culinary instructor, food writer, and lecturer Sheilah Kaufman is the author of 25 cookbooks and has been teaching the art of cooking for more than 38 years. She specializes in richly flavored, no-fuss foods from around the world.