By Michael Natkin ,
JTNews Columnist
Arancini. “Little oranges.” Only these guys aren’t quite so healthy as a piece of citrus. They are actually balls of risotto, stuffed with molten cheese, rolled in breadcrumbs and deep fried, which makes them a perfect change of pace for Hanukkah.
Arancini are traditionally street food, but you can serve them as a passed appetizer at a party, or a fairly filling first course. And although they are a bit labor intensive, you can prepare everything the day before so all you have to do at showtime is the actual rolling in breadcrumbs and frying.
Please don’t use commercial “Italian” breadcrumbs for this (or anything else). It is well worth the minimal effort to run some day-old bread through the food processor. You can freeze any leftover breadcrumbs (that haven’t touched raw egg) and use them to top gratins, casseroles, pasta, etc.
Arancini di Riso
Vegetarian, not vegan; can be gluten-free if you use gluten-free breadcrumbs and broth
4 cups clear vegetable broth
2 Tbs. olive oil
1/2 cup finely diced onion
1-1/4 cups arborio or other risotto rice
1/4 cup dry white wine or vermouth
1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 egg
About 4 oz. of scamorza, smoked mozzarella or other flavorful, meltable Italian cheese, cut into cubes a little bigger than 1/2″ on a side
Salt to taste
Oil for deep frying
1-1/2 cups finely ground fresh breadcrumbs (whiz day-old non moldy bread in food processor; if not dry enough, toast lightly first)
2 eggs beaten with 1/4 tsp. salt
Flaky sea salt
Tomato sauce for dipping
Bring the broth to a simmer. Heat a medium saucepan over a medium-high flame. Sauté the onion in the olive oil for 1 minute until it softens but doesn’t brown. Add the rice and sauté for another minute, until it turns translucent. Add the wine and cook for 30 seconds.
Begin to add the broth. Initially, add enough to cover the rice. Reduce to a simmer. Stir occasionally — you don’t need to do it as much as you would if you were serving this as regular risotto. Add broth occasionally, as you see it dip below the level of the rice. You probably won’t need all of it. Stop when the rice is tender to bite but still has a hint of toothsomeness left — the equivalent of al dente for pasta. Stir in the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Taste and add salt if needed.
Allow the rice to cool to room temperature (you can spread it out if you need that to happen faster), then stir in one egg thoroughly.
With dampened hands, form balls of the rice. Something around golf-ball size is good. Poke a hole and insert a cube of cheese, then re-form the rice evenly around the cheese. If you like, you can now store these pre-formed balls in a single layer in the refrigerator for a day. Wrap them well so they don’t dry out.
When you are ready to cook, heat your oil for deep frying to about 360º. Dip each ball first in the beaten eggs, then roll them around in the breadcrumbs. (Hint: don’t put all the breadcrumbs in the bowl at once — then, if you have some left, they will be uncontaminated to save for later). Fry the balls in small batches so the oil doesn’t cool down too much, or they will turn out greasy. Cook, turning occasionally, until deep brown.
Remove the balls to plates covered in paper towels. Season with flaky sea salt. Allow them to cool a bit before serving and warn your guests, so they don’t burn their mouths! These guys really hold the heat, especially the molten cheese. Serve with tomato sauce on the side for dipping.
Makes about 12, depending on size.
Local food writer and chef Michael Natkin’s 2012 cookbook “Herbivoracious, A Flavor Revolution with 150 Vibrant and Original Vegetarian Recipes,” was a finalist this year for a James Beard award. The recipes are based on his food blog, herbivoracious.com.